Skip to main content
Family by the villa pool at Desa Visesa Ubud in Bali

8 NOVEMBER 2017

Bali Travel Guide - Part 3 Ubud

This post is also available in: deutsch

Last updated 8 July 2026

Hello Lovelies,

we spent the last 4 days of our trip in Ubud. (You can read our other guides about Jimbaran here and Canggu here). We had been in Ubud 7 years ago but only for a day trip and I have to admit I don't remember much of it. So this time we decided to spent more time and explore it a bit more. Ubud is definitely the centre of "healthy lifestyle" with Yoga studios at each corner and lot of cafes/restaurants with healthy food options.

**Our Hotel: Desa Visesa Ubud **

The Desa Visesa Ubud is a bit up the hill from the town and like a little village itself. We have been greeted extreme friendly with a little Welcome-Ceremony and -Drink. We had the possibility to get an upgrade to a 2-bedroom villa with pool and decided to go for it (Disclaimer: we have been invited by the hotel to stay for 2 nights, but paid for the other nights and the upgrade). We didn't regret the upgrade at all, because the villa is really beautiful. 2 big bedrooms each with a lovely outdoor bathroom and of course your own pool in the middle - everything surrounded by tropical plants for a lot of privacy.

Twin beds under a white mosquito net canopy with a carved wooden headboardRolled white cloth with a blossom motif resting on a patterned woven table runnerTurquoise private villa pool with a lounger and parasol framed by dense tropical planting
View across the pool to the villa terrace with its teak table and chairsOpen air stone shower framed by tall reeds behind a private garden wallTwo round vessel sinks on a wood vanity below a carved backlit mirrorClose view of two stone spouts pouring water into the turquoise pool

I lived the open concept of the whole hotel, they don't really have any closed rooms. Also the Lobby and restaurant are open and are facing the main pool. On the way to our villa with a golf buggy we have been shown the beautiful hotel grounds. There is a big rice field in the middle of the resort, the kids club, spa area and the permaculture - a farm with animals, fruit trees and endless rice fields.

Sprawling resort pool beside a carved stone relief wall with Balinese figures and spoutsGreen rice terraces behind a thatched pavilion and a pond dotted with lotus flowersTwo blonde girls sit with a Balinese host on a wooden deck by the pond
Green rice terraces behind a thatched pavilion and a pond dotted with lotus flowersStone marker with a frog carving and blue farm lettering among tall green grassesVivid green rice terraces lined with coconut palms under a cloudy grey sky

Everything is in harmony with nature and you never get the feeling you are in a big hotel. The employees are super friendly and we felt very welcome from the beginning. They are also great with kids, so the girls have been very comfortable all the time.

We loved the complimentary shuttle to Ubud. It leaves the resort every hour and there is a Drop-Off and also a Pick-Up and this always worked perfectly.

The girls also went to the kids club 2 times and really enjoyed the time there. They got to feed the fish and chicken and I really felt good about the media free concept of the club. Kids are in nature and outside and can play games or do crafts.

Tree trunk carrying permaculture lettering beside a parasol at the edge of the rice fieldGirl playing at a low table in an open bamboo pavilion hung with colorful kites

The kids enjoyed the kids club and we totally enjoyed the spa. We went for their 30 minutes back massage Happy Hour offer in the morning the first time and it was amazing! The open bamboo huts are just so pretty and relaxing already and the therapists know what they are doing! We immediately booked another massage - 90 minutes this time and it was for sure one of the best massages I had in a ling time. We felt so relaxed and good afterwards, the whole Spa experience was so lovely. I can only recommend it.

Two massage beds in an open bamboo hut facing the jungle with rolled towelsGreen bananas still on the plant among red leaved tropical shrubs in the farm garden

We had breakfast included in our package and it's a buffet with options for everyone. Fresh eggs, pancakes, waffles, asian food as well as fresh fruits and cereals. I would have loved more vegan or healthy options, but I have to admit I didn't ask for any specials, just went with lot of fruits and toast which was fine.

Breakfast buffet in an open pavilion with bread baskets, chafing dishes and guests servingBowl of mango, banana and salak on a banana leaf topped with a frangipani blossom

We also had lunch at the hotel once, which was such a lovely experience. We could have the table in the middle of the rice field and enjoyed traditional balinese food, sweet potatoes, corn, a balinese salad with green beans and Daddy Frei also had some grilled chicken.

Two girls in white dresses walking through bright green rice paddies below the resort roofsWooden platter of corn rounds and boiled peanuts beside young drinking coconuts at lunchSweet potato fries in a small bowl next to a grilled open sandwich with arugula

We spent the evening exploring Ubud and its restaurants which was super easy since we could use the Shuttle- So here are some of our recommendations:

**Restaurants in Ubud: **

We have been a bit unfortunate with the weather the first two days of our stay, since it was raining a lot. And thats when you realize how spoilt we are with our perfect infrastructure in Switzerland. The streets in Bali are more like muddy streams when it's pouring rain and in general you have to be carful that you don't loose one off the kids in a hole in the street. But since it is still warm, its not that bad - loosing a kid would be, but I mean the rain :-).

First evening we spent in Ubud we decided to go to "Earth Cafe" - a vegan restaurant and shop. The food was okay, but we did not find it super special, Daddy Frei was especially unhappy with his choice (Seitan Saté). But we bought some things in the store, which had a good assortment.

The next day we went to  **"Kafe" **which had more options for everyone in the family. The food was good and they had good vegan and non-vegan options and so everyone was happy. I also wanted to try  **"Sayuri Healing Food Café" **so we went there for desert. its a bit longer walking distance from the Main Street and the Shuttle drop off, but still manageable by foot. And Ubud has a bit better walkways than Canggu - at least at the main road (just mind the gaps and holes :-). At Sayuri I went for the Raw Tiramisu, a recommendation from a lovely blogger colleague and it was really delicious. The girls went for ice cream. If you like healthy food and bowls, then Sayuri is the right place to go.

Warmly lit cafe room with low wooden tables, large floor cushions and reclaimed wood wallsVeggie patty with avocado, tomato and red pepper on lettuce served on a wooden plateLayered tiramisu dusted with cocoa and drizzled with chocolate sauce on a white plate

I also liked the "Watercrest" Café/Restaurant. We went there for a quick stop after the Monkey Forest. I had an Avocado Toast and that was yummy and also all the other food I have seen looked tempting.

Two slices of avocado toast piled with watercress on a board beside a green smoothie

**Trips: **

Due to the rainy weather we didn't go on any trips at the beginning and stayed at the resorts and enjoyed the pleasures of our private pool. But we decided to go to the Monkey Forest for one day, since we thought the girls would like it. At first they were happy to come up close with the monkeys, but the monkeys have been a bit cheeky and pushy and after they tried to steel out of Daddy Frei's pocket they had a lot of respect (the girls not the monkeys). So just be aware that you should not bring any bags with you and be prepared that the monkeys can be a bit rude. The Sacred Monkey Forest is home to over 1,260 long-tailed macaques and three holy temples that still play an important role for the Balinese today.

Young long tailed macaque nibbling a piece of fruit against a blurred green canopyMacaque sitting on a wooden railing with legs stretched out, looking down
Adult macaque seen from behind watching a youngster feed on the leaf covered forest floorMacaque holding a fruit while sitting on a paved stone walkway in the forest

We didn't go to the rice terraces this time since we have been there our last visits and we had the most beautiful rice fields at the hotel.

Ornately carved stone temple tower rising behind frangipani trees under a blue cloudy skyWhite and brown ducks along the edge of a bright green rice paddy

One of my highlights was a visit to Gaya Ceramics - a small local ceramic manufacture, which I heard about a lot. And lucky me, there was a big sale going on just the dates we have been there so I HAD to buy a lot from there.

We had such a wonderful time in Ubud and especially at the Desa Visesa - we can only recommend the hotel and would stay there again. And then the time in Bali was up and we had to leave for Switzerland again. We had booked a transfer via the hotel and with a quick stop at Gaya Ceramics to pick up what I bought we went to the airport and flew home via Doha again.

I really hope you liked our little travel guide and we could awaken your wanderlust and share our love for Bali - it wasn't the last time that we have been there. And if you'd like to bring a little of it home: our curry with broccoli, coconut milk and bulgur brings exactly those warming flavours to the table.

Love Verena

Mother and two children seen from behind in an infinity pool facing pink bougainvillea
GOOD TO KNOW

Frequently asked questions

  • Absolutely. Ubud is greener, calmer and cooler than Bali's coastal towns, which makes it a wonderful place to slow down with children. Our girls loved the nature-focused kids' club at Desa Visesa, where they fed animals and did crafts with no screens in sight. Add the rice fields right by the hotel, your own pool and the many cafés with healthy food, and everyone is happy. The hourly shuttle into town keeps you flexible. One thing to know: the streets are not stroller-friendly, so smaller children are best carried in a sling.

  • The big highlight is the Monkey Forest with its free-roaming macaques, which our daughters found exciting with a healthy dose of respect. Otherwise Ubud is best enjoyed at a slow pace: playing in the kids' club, splashing in the pool, wandering through rice fields, or having a Balinese massage in the open bamboo huts while the children are looked after. We also made a trip to the Gaya Ceramics workshop. We skipped the rice terraces this time because we had the most beautiful rice fields right at the hotel, which left plenty of time to enjoy Ubud calmly.

  • It is safe, but a few rules matter. The Sacred Monkey Forest is home to over 1,260 long-tailed macaques that roam freely and are considered sacred by the Balinese. The animals can get cheeky and pushy, especially when they sense food or shiny objects. So don't bring bags, food or loose items, and keep your children close by the hand. Then the visit is a real treat. Ours got a little bold with us, after which the girls kept a respectful distance for the rest of the walk.

  • The best time to visit Bali is the dry season from May to October, when it is sunny and pleasantly warm. We travelled in November and had a lot of rain on our first 2 days in Ubud, which quickly turns the streets into muddy little streams. It is not a big deal, since it stays warm, but the dry season is clearly nicer for day trips. Ubud sits in the cooler inland part of the island, so evenings here are often fresher than on the coast. Pack a light rain jacket just in case.

  • Ubud is a paradise for healthy and vegan food. Our favourite was Kafe, with a big choice of vegan and non-vegan dishes that kept the whole family happy. At the Sayuri Healing Food Café we tried the delicious raw tiramisu, perfect for anyone who loves healthy bowls and desserts. We also liked Watercrest with its avocado toast. The vegan Earth Cafe didn't win us over on the food, but the attached shop is lovely. You rarely need a reservation, and the hotel shuttle brings you comfortably into the centre.

Yours, Verena

PIN IT

Pinterest

Family by the villa pool at Desa Visesa Ubud in Bali
Save to Pinterest

Share this post

Comments come from our readers. We do not check whether someone has actually tried what they describe. Our review policy


Leave a comment

Never published.


No comments yet

Be the first to share your thoughts.

FOLLOW US

@frei_style on Instagram

Follow us for daily inspiration from our kitchen.

Instagram content blocked by your cookie settings.

© Verena FreiImage rightsLicense this photo